Worth Taking the Risk

I’ve long been dreaming of going to Sagada. I want to see for myself that mystical place. Actually, Mountain Province has this allure in my childhood mind that I just couldn’t put off. My grandparents and mother have all been to Mountain Province, but not to Sagada.And they have told us countless stories about the province.

One October morning, I was sitting on my chair and staring at my PC’s monitor when an idea struck me. Since I’m going for a one week leave for the All Saints’ and Souls’ Days, why not make Sagada a detour before heading to La Union? Hmn, nice idea. Now, I just have to urge someone to go with me.

Anj was my first victim. Since bad influence ako, I told her to take a leave from work (kasi nagpapakamartir na sya) coz she needs some relaxation. I urged her (to death) to come to Sagada with me. And we persuaded everyone else. Kel, Ivee, Candice, Paolo… and only two of them heeded my call. Si Candice at Ivee. At syempre, buzzer beater ang decision ni Ramil na jumoin na rin. (Ramil, walang mall sa Sagada.)

To prepare for this adventure, I researched (to the max) about Sagada. I found helpful tips from the people at Virtual Tourist. And I estimated our expenses at around PhP5,000 coz magastos talaga kami. Especially when it comes sa pasalubong. Sure ako dyan. Walang palya. Yun ang bubuo ng kalahati ng aming mga expenses. And of course, food dahil matakaw kami. Given na rin yun kaya wag na kayong ma-shock sa PhP5,000.

Since naka500+ pics yata ako on this trip (damn you, cam whore! Haha! Plus, Ivee’s, Candice’s, Anj’s, and Ramil’s [na mas sosyal coz video yung sa kanya]… that’s equal to LOTS of memories. I LOVE it!), I’ll let our lenses tell you the story.

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Bangag na sila nang lagay na yan. Coz when they reached Baguio, I was still on the mini bus from San Fernando to Baguio. That’s 4:00am. Anj told me they alternated sleeping and waking up while waiting for me at the Victory Liner station. Sorry guys, 6:00am naman ang first trip to Sagada eh. Hehe!

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The GL Liner was half full when we came. We chose seats near the rear of the bus and settled there for 30 minutes before we started our journey. That’s PhP220.00 each for fare.

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Medyo nakakatakot yung bus kasi well, it’s old. Pero in a way, it’s much more comforting to know that this bus has already traversed Halsema Highway a lot of times already so more or less, sanay na sanay na. Hehe.

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I almost forgot we were sitting on uncomfortable seats and traversing rugged roads when I saw these beautiful scenes of mountains and little terraces. All this green calmed my nerves. Everything was just breathtaking. I still haven’t gotten over the beauty of one scene when there’s another on the next curve.

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This is our first stop. Surprisingly, I felt a little bit dizzy, the first time (again) after many years of traveling. Anyway, Anj and I bought apples for PhP12.00 each at he Morning Star store. They’re cold and crunchy. I didn’t know if that was a good idea for breakfast but it sure removed all the dizziness and uncomfortable pangs I was feeling. And we’re off to Sagada. Hanggang sa nagtatanong na kami, “Sagada, where art thou?” Napalitan na ang lahat ng mga pasahero pero andun pa rin kami.

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We encountered a few landslides on our way to Sagada. My mother and grandparents had warned me that the roads to Mountain Province are narrow and steep that a vehicle would have to give way if it meet another. The roads were also dusty. And since storm Paeng just passed by North Luzon a few days ago, there were landslides on the way. Just like this one. Gusto ko nang sumigaw ng “Manong, padaanin n’yo na muna kami! Anong petsa nah!!!” kasi ambagal talaga. After ten years, ipinaubaya naman ng truck ang daan sa amin. At another 10 years, narating namin ang Sagada.

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We arrived in Sagada past 12 noon and we immediately went to the Tourist Information Center to register (excited!). We paid PhP20.00 each. We also checked out the schedules of and fees for caving, trekking, and sight seeing. We kept on asking questions kaya feeling namin nakulitan na yung tao sa TIC. Pero accommodating pa rin sya. Haha!

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After the TIC, we went looking for the George Guesthouse. I read rave reviews about this place. I also emailed Mr. Irenius Tauile, the proprietor of the place, before going to Sagada. He helped us a lot in our decision to push through with our trip. The unassuming sari-sari store on the first floor was the reception area. One of his assistants showed us the penthouse room.

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This is our home in Sagada for three days and two nights. After that long trip, we wanted to lie down and sleep the moment we saw these beds. The room is so cozy and clean. There were four beds. Anj and Ivee shared one bed while Ramil and Candice took the two beds on the inner room. I took the one near the windows.

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Here we are! We’re ready to conquer Sagada! From the terrace, we have this wonderful view of the Demang and Dagdag villages. We can also see small terraces from afar. Plus, we were immediately sure that sunrises are picturesque on that part of the house. Feeling maganda kami with our hair swaying with the wind. Why not!

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Since our stomachs are already grumbling, we decided to eat at the Yoghurt House. We passed by this small resto on our way to the guest house. The food there was great! We really enjoyed their homemade yoghurt. It was creamy and sour and sweet. See the pics of some Yoghurt House specialties and our sort of reviews here.

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After Yoghurt House, we decided to visit the souvenir shops already since it started drizzling a bit. While walking on the street, this kid came from behind and began beating our legs with the empty mineral water bottles she was holding. Of course we were surprised but the incident was funny rather than irritating. Haha! We couldn’t figure out why she did that but heller, she’s so cute we just didn’t mind her “beatings.”

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We went hunting for cheap souvenirs. Yes, that’s on our first day! Haha! Well, it was already raining by this time so we assumed we couldn’t do any outdoor adventure. There were so many beautiful local crafts to buy. Hay, so little money. sadness. Hahaha!

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We went back to the guest house after and took naps. We agreed to wake up at around 5pm to do more sightseeing or just go around the whole town. But yes, you guessed it right, we didn’t wake up on time! It was already 6 o’clock when we woke up! Waaah! So we just took a bath and headed out for dinner.

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Dinner was at Alfred’s Cabin at the Alfredo Inn. We decided to order three viands and a cup of rice each. The food and its reviews are here.

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We were craving for something sweet so we decided to change diners and went to Masferre’s for dessert. We ordered large mugs of Masferre’s hot chocolate and a whole loaf of banana bread. The banana bread is good. Really good.

[Evening]
This is our first evening in Sagada but we didn’t get to enjoy the black sky bedecked with stars coz it was already raining. Sad. But heck, the night is cold and lying on our soft cushioned beds under the flanella blankets was the perfect place for us. Ivee and I listened to our MP3s first while Ramil, Candice, and Anj insisted on reading the books they brought along (Murakami, Garcia-Marquez, and Medina respectively) before going to sleep. In a matter of minutes, er, seconds, we all succumbed to slumber.

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Dawn descends upon Sagada slowly. I never realized it was 6am until I saw my phone’s clock screaming “rise and shine!” Tomatoe’s alarm clock didn’t work or it did but I felt it was better to stay under my flanella blanket than brave the colds. But of course, the promise of good tasting breakfast, spirit-lifting views, and mystical treks pulled me out of bed.

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Ramil was up before 6am. I was awakened when he opened the door to take a video of the Sagadan dawn. I was inspired to do the same. I went out the room, with my hair tangled and my face still oily to catch a photo of Sagada’s breathtaking dawn. Fogs enveloped the far away mountains. The nearest hills were bedecked with several lights, a sign that some of the Sagadans are also up and awake to start a brand new day.

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We decided to go to Masferre’s again for breakfast. Their breakfast sets are really filling and delicious. Read our humble opinion and see the food pics here.

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While trying to find our way to the Kiltepan Tower, we had kodakan moments on the side of the road. Haha! yes, we really couldn’t waste an opportunity as good as this. The sun was up and its rays were highlighting our features really well.

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There was this crack in between two huge boulders of rock. We thought the map was pointing it as the little trail to Kiltepan Tower so we decided to enter it. Well, wrong turn. Haha! But at least we got a glimpse of what’s to come in our trekking adventure.

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We decided to head to the Echo Valley after not succeeding in our Kitlepan Tower trip. Hehe! We passed by St. Mary’s Church on our way to the Echo Valley.

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This is the stairway to the cemetery / Echo Valley / and Hanging Coffins. After this rock stairs comes a trail. When we reached the cemetery, we decided to turn left. Wrong move. (At this moment, it still hadn’t entered our minds to look for a guide instead.)

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Before being lost in the hillside, I stumbled upon this cliff which showed the hanging coffins way way below me. Argh! Bakit sya nasa baba?! We went up the hills coz we were stupid to think that since the coffins are hanging, then they must be located UP! Wrong thinking! We missed the trail so we have to go around the cemetery and find the right trail there. Team, begin again.

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It was a hard trek down. It was our first time on this kind of activity that we were really slow. There were foreigners behind us and we have to make way for them so as not to become nuisances to them. Haha! We finally reached the hanging coffins after half an hour or so.

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The latest addition to the hanging coffin was that of Bomit-Og. It was placed there August of last year. There’s a tribal belief that the higher the coffins are, the closer the spirits are to their god. There are more hanging coffins in Sagada but so far, this is the only spot easily (easy daw oh!) accessible to people.

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It was a hard climb up again but it was well worth it. We rested for a couple of minutes and enjoyed the view. We shouted our names and heard the echoes. Wow! Nasa echo valley na nga kami! Haha!

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We ate lunch at the Shamrock III. It’s the restaurant of the Sagada Inn. Read our food review and see the pics here. Just scroll down.

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We rested for a few minutes and then we’re ready to cave! We have our guide with us, Kuya Biag (“biag” is an ilocano term for “life”). We hitched at a passing jeep on the way to the cave. We walked a little more and we saw this spectacular view of the small terraces afar. The whole scene left us breathless. (Imagine if we could have seen the Banaue Rice Terraces! We could have died on the spot! Hehe, OA!)

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Now, we stand before the great Sumaguing cave. I was so nervous about this adventure. I’ve never done caving before and I certainly has no good record in any athletic or physical activity. Nadah. So what the heck was I thinking coming to this place and posing like I really really look forward to spelunking?! Waah!

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Kuya Biag had a hard time lighting his lamp. Hmn?! Was that a sign to abandon our caving dreams. Hah! But no, we were already there and nothing can stop us. Well, sort of. Haha! Kuya Biag gave us instructions before we went deeper into Sumaguing. O di ba! Well, he was afraid for our lives. Hahaha!

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Okay, the trail down was hard. (C’mon, it was our first time so indulge me on my whining. Hehehe!) The rocks were slippery yet rough. We have to use every part of our body to move downwards. Hindi mo kailangan ng poise dito. Aside from the darkness, you wouldn’t mind the others whether they’re slipping or they’re stumbling or they’re cursing or they’re praying for dear life. You would just have to mind yourself. One wrong step and you’re dead. But if you have a guide like Kuya Biag, you just have to worry half of it. He helped us all the way. Thank you!

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Yihee! We were here. If only we can sign the King’s Curtains formation inside the cave with our names. Wahaha! We survived the climb down.

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We had our kodak moments inside. Yes, we’re that cam addict. Despite the rocks, the water, the darkness, we still had the guts to take pictures of us! Hahaha!

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And we conquered Sumaguing! Haha! Well not quite coz only Candice went to the inside tunnel. But still, considering our caving history (which amounts to zero), I say we did a pretty good job! I luv yah, guys!

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It was the longest walk ever. We were tired and our muscles sore. I didn’t even know how we got back to the guest house. All I know was that Anj and I kept on bumping into each other on our way home. We were dragging our feet home that we forgot to give them direction. Hehehe!

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We reached the guest house and my whole body felt numb. Haha! Nevertheless, it was a great adventure! By the way, ilang caves nga yung dapat nating pupuntahan?! Wahehe! Coz we were supposed to go to three caves pero sa Sumaguing pa lang, naubos na ang aming lakas. Hahahaha! We had a hot bath when we reached the guest house and we spent the night talking and laughing at our [mis]adventure.

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We enjoyed a dinner of chips and Coke. And then, Anj, Ivee, and Ramil bought some yoghurt from the Yoghurt House (which is the nearest resto sa guesthouse). Mine had bananas on it. Creamy!

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Aww… this was taken on our last day in Sagada. We had to bid goodbye but before that, some eating and shopping time first.

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We ate breakfast at the Cafe St. Joe at the St. Joesph’s Inn. For everything about the food, click here.

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Shopping mavens! Hahaha! Just look at those bags in our hands. We hoarded Sagadan products. Hahaha! Well, I concentrated on food prods. I bought some choco oatmeal cookies, muesli cookies, and chocolate crinkles. Plus some other knick knacks like bracelets, necklaces, etc.

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This is our goodbye pic. Haha! The kind owners of George Guesthouse even lent us their FX and brought us to the bus station. That was a relief since there was no way I could have carried all my baggages up that road! My body was aching double from the trekking and caving we did the day before.

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We were supposed to leave for Baguio via the GL Trans but the last trip was already full so we had to take the jeepney to Bontoc and ride the bus there to Baguio. The road to Bontoc gave us these amazing views too. Panalo!

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We decided to ride the cable Tours instead which will take the Ifugao, Nueva Vizcaya, Nueva Ecija route to Manila. At least it was direct but it will leave at 3 in the afternoon and we reached Bontoc around noon. A couple of hours wait again at the Cable Tours Cafe.

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While waiting for the cable bus, Candice, Ivee, and I decided to roam around Bontoc in search for the vegetable pabilin of Candice’s mom. Haha! Bontoc is like a city already with its growing modern establishments. The place is not as cold as Sagada anymore. Anyway, there were still some pleasant sights.

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Their plaza was simple but their municipal hall and the building surrounding it were not. The place is already progressive. Good thing.

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This is the Chico River. We didn’t have any idea what this bridge is called so we decided to call it the Chico Bridge. Haha!

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Time to leave Bontoc and go home. (sob)

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Darn! It started raining when we left Bontoc so my window was full of raindrops. I couldn’t take good shots of the scenery outside. The route we took was scary as hell. I could clearly see the cliffs and the deep trenches way below. Coz I’m such a paranoid girl, I was already thinking of the means I’ll have to do once the bus plunge into the bangin! Waah! Haha! When we went higher, the fogs got thicker. It was near zero visibility and it was scary! What if the driver can’t see where we’re going?! And there when we’re traversing downhill slopes, the bus engine dies. It might be a tactic or a natural process or whatever, it was scaaarrryyyyy! I began praying…

After 13 long hours, numerous zigzags, two stopovers, and one flat tire, we reached Manila around 3 in the morning! It was such a long travel but after all those, it was well worth it. I love every second of the trip.

Who’s with me for a second trip to Sagada?
Hahahaha! (I’m sure I can see Candice’s hand raise from here. Haha!)

For more tips, comments, and suggestions, visit my Virtual Tourist pages on Sagada here.  I hope these travel pages can help you plan your Sagada trip. You must take that trip. You MUST go on that journey.

Drop me a comment on VT okay.

Plus, read ANJ’s version ofour Sagada adventure here. Para naman may bagong perspective. Haha! Kakatawa Kakatuwa yung bloopers part. Haha! Can’t stop laughing!

Ivee and Candice will follow suit with their own kuwentos so stay tuned!


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